August 10

Boston is a great town, if you are walking and using public transportation. Forget any fun you think you might have in driving. What a mess. But I used the Orange Line subway from Assembly area to the Downtown Crossing stop to begin today’s park visits. The downtown area was not crowded. Seemed to be more pigeons than humans. Boston Common still looks green and big. This is the oldest public park in America. At its northeast corner sits Saint-Gaudens piece de resistance, his Col. Shaw and 54th MA regiment bronze sculpture. Across the street is the Massachusetts State House. This is the beginning of the Black Heritage Trail, as well as the Freedom Trail (or the end if you travel east-to-west). You can view the paths of both trails on the NPS websites. The purpose of both is to lead visitors by important buildings from Boston’s historical past. Boston was center stage for the fights to win freedom; for a new country and for African Americans. The Beacon Hill neighborhood was the focal point of African American voices in the 1800s. The famous African Meeting House is on the trail, and is part of the NPS. A fun fact of the 21st century is that on the perimeter of the neighborhood, once the residential properties are passed, many wonderful stores and restaurants abound. I decided to even pass on the chocolates and sweets.

Back at the Col. Shaw sculpture a few of those Duck Tour boats passed by, with narrators giving background on the art. I was ready for the 2.5-mile walk on the Freedom Trail. No need to bring any refreshments on these kinds of hikes. Every other store seemed to be a cafe, coffee shop, or restaurant. Need a drink? Just stop and buy one. Saves from lugging around bottles and bags. That is just big city life. There were plenty of people at the Granary Burying Ground to see the graves of John Hancock and Paul Revere. Like in the Wizard of Oz, the Freedom Trail has its own brick road. The Red Brick Road is what one follows to see the sites. So, I looked down and kept walking forward to the Old State House. The bricks are two-wide, laid lengthwise. The color red makes the path stand out from the cement sidewalks and gray asphalt roads. The State stop on the Orange Line is right under this iconic building. So, if you get to Boston, stay at a hotel near the Orange Line and then take the subway right into the heart of the city’s historic area. Or you can always pay the exorbitant prices in the downtown hotels. The Old State House was witness to the March 5, 1770 Boston Massacre. Some colonists were bugging a lone British soldier, Private Hugh White, who was guarding the King’s money at the Custom House, but things quickly got out of hand. White called for reinforcements. A few moments later someone yelled “fire” and men died. Makes one think of the National Guard at Kent State University in 1970.

Faneuil Hall is the cornerstone of Boston NHP. It has the park’s VC and bookstore. Next to Faneuil Hall is Quincy Marketplace. This spot has been the heart and soul of Boston’s commerce since the 1600s. The restaurants and food vendors in this building are amazing. And plenty of high-end small shops on the periphery. Then it was time to walk over the top of I-83. My brother Mike worked for Bechtel, the lead contractor for the Big Dig. This was the largest engineering project of its type between 1991 and 2006, and the costliest highway construction project ever. The north side of the I-93 is home to ethnic groups, especially Italian. And the food is awesome. As awesome is being able to walk inside Paul Revere’s house, the oldest building in downtown Boston. The doorways are short in height for us 21st century men, but manageable. A little way later on the Red Brick Road is Old North Church. Every kid is taught in school as to what happened here on April 18, 1775.

Across the Charles River is Charlestown Navy Yard and the U.S.S. Constitution. No reservations needed to tour. Just be sure you arrive on a day when the ship is open. Be sure to check the foundation’s website. Even though this is part of Boston NHP, the U.S. Navy owns the boat and the docks, so they have preference in saying when the ship is accessible to the public. There is plenty of elbow and head room on top deck. But the two decks below were quite cramped. Every man, and a few women, was bending over in order ta walk. Were men really shorter a couple hundred years ago? It was great to see the cannon pointing out the gun ports along with all the other items of sea life, such as hammocks and bilge pumps. One of the signs on the bottom deck said that for burials at sea the crew would sew a man’s hammock around him and a cannon ball, with the last push of the needle through his nose, to make sure he was really dead. Military branches have some unique traditions.

The climb up Bunker Hill was uneventful. The NPS has a museum across the street from the main entry to the monument area. The monument is being refurbished so no one could climb to the top.