August 12

I learned later in the day that Saturdays are the worst time to travel to/from Cape Cod. Saturdays are when Time Shares kick folks out (in the morning) and let new folks in (evening). Thankfully, I was at the National Seashore by 8 AM, with no problems. That was not the case when leaving. 2.5 hours from the Salt Pond VC to route 25 on the mainland (43 miles). Two- and four-mile backups, going onto the island, and leaving the island. And that did not count the stopping/starting on US 6 for most of the way. There are only two bridges connecting the land masses, and they were getting a full workout. Our road infrastructure cannot keep pace with the growing number of cars each year. But my stay at the National Seashore was fun. I came across a turkey hen and five juveniles, as well as some cottontail rabbits. I did not see any Great White Sharks or seals, which was probably a good thing for the people at Nauset Beach. A couple of short hikes are near the VC for viewing the Salt Pond Bay marsh areas which are protected from the waves of the ocean. I did not venture to the end of Cape Cod at Provincetown. I will save that for another trip.

Finally, I made it to New Bedford Whaling NHP. I hope I never have to see that Cape Cod traffic ogain. The park is a couple minutes off I-195, with plenty of parking on the city streets. I put my car right outside the front door to the VC, which is in an old bank building. A ranger asked me about my Quest and took a photo of me for the park’s Facebook page. In the VC’s courtyard I met two lovely women who were dressed in period clothing for the 19th century. It is great to see this extra touch of history. They explained a number of items associated with whaling, which they laid out on tables. They had even made some bread for visitors to eat. Two thumbs up, ladies. There is a short walking tour in this section of town for the sites in the park. I went first to the Seaman’s Bethel. Though the building was ready for a wedding, two nice ladies allowed me to take a quick peak in the sanctuary. The one lady said her sister had shaken the hand of Gregory Peck, who came to New Bedford in 1956 for the premiere of the famous movie Moby Dick. A photo on a wall in the building shows Mr. Peck attending. The Bethel was built in 1832 by the New Bedford Port Society for the Moral Improvement of Seamen, so as to try and keep them wholesome. After being at sea for months, a city’s vices can seem attractive. Next door is the Mariner’s Home, a place where seamen could live while waiting for their next sailing. The city’s Customs House is also within the boundary of the park. It is the oldest continuously operating customs house in the country, since 1836, but it is not open to the public. Though not part of the park, the New Bedford Whaling Museum is a great venue to learn in more detail the history of whaling and the city.

Just 30 miles down the road is Providence, RI, and the Roger Williams NMem. The park setting is about five blocks long, by one-half block wide. It sits at the bottom of the hill from Brown University, across the Moshassuck River from the RI State House. A couple of walking paths cut through the park, passing by bushes, flowers, and seating areas. Williams’ house used to be across the road which is the park’s eastern boundary. A small VC sits on the NE corner of the park. When I walked in, one ranger said, “it’s you”. He had seen the posting on the New Bedford Facebook page and figured I was headed to his park next. He was right. He said New Bedford, Williams, and Blackstone are “sister parks”, like Saugus and Salem which were earlier in my travels. I mentioned this park is larger than Tupelo NB, and he replied he had been checking the size of Williams versus the other 424 parks since the staff gets asked a lot about the size of this park. He said Williams is the 25th smallest park in the NPS by land area. Well, what it lakes in acreage, it makes up for in shade trees, cool breezes, relaxation, and peace of mind… exactly what Roger Williams had in mind when he wanted Rhode Island to be a land where anyone could come and be themselves without any fear of government or persecution.

Speaking of Blackstone, that was the last stop of the day. The Williams ranger said 2:30 PM would be the last tour of Slater’s Mill, in Pawtucket. My previous trips to this park were not rewarded with the tour; the building always closed. With the two parks only eight minutes apart, I easily made it in time. Everything inside is original to the science of spinning cotton from the 1800s, as are the beams, posts, and structural materials. Ranger Owen took us from one piece of equipment to the next, explaining the process. A 300-pound bale of raw cotton began the tour. The workers from 1793 to the mill’s final days were children, ages 6 to 14. They would work 12-hour days, six days a week. Thankfully, our society has improved labor laws for today’s world. But the owners and Slater were interested solely in profit and efficiency. Sadly, we still see that in the 21st century. The Blackstone River was flowing vigorously over the nearby falls. A large tree had become stuck on the lip of the falls. Owen said the city is trying to determine how to safely remove it. But it was this drop in elevation of the river which made the area so attractive to the people who built the mill, and the 100 more mills which came soon after. For 43 miles the Blackstone River drops around 400 feet. That is plenty of power to turn waterwheels.