March 11
Today was a full schedule. I was met by rangers Judy and Cheryl as I entered the VC at Fort Raleigh NHS. They explained the couple of trails in the park, with the “fort” being the site which draws the most interest. Archeological digs determined the position of the original fort compound from the landing parties in the late 1500s. Reconstructed earthworks were created, using the same technique by the English; dig trenches and use the dirt to build the tall earthen fort. A nature trail headed off to the left just before I reached the fort area. Another recent dig has determined an area close to the fort was a “machine shop” of sorts, used by metallurgist Joachim Gans and scientist Thomas Hariot. Implements of everyday life had to be handcrafted, and these were the two who set up shop to support the 1585 landing. This discovery was a welcomed surprise to the historians.
The first landing was here in 1584, just an exploratory expedition, to see what value this new land would have to the English, who were in a race against the Spanish to gain a foothold in America. A return in 1585 allowed for a military presence to build. The 1587 trek to this spot was for 100+ colonists to try and establish a livelihood, completely separated all they had known back in England. It was this party of men, women, and children who would go down in history as the “Lost Colony of Roanoke.” The first English child born in America, Virginia Dare, called this place home for at least a few months. When three years later a vessel returned to check on the colonists, not a trace of their whereabouts could be determined. Only the word “croatan” carved into the side of a tree. Currently, there is no expectation the mystery of the lost colony will ever be solved.
As I was returning from the fort trail, Annetta and Jeremy greeted me. Annette said she had heard from the rangers that a man was on a Park Quest and wanted to meet me. They love to travel around to parks, just as I and thousands of others do. It is great to meet people with similar interests. They wished me well for my stop at Wright Brothers NMem. A good guess is that most people have heard of the Wright Brothers, and their accomplishment at Kill Devil Hills in NC. On December 17, 1903, they are credited with being the first to harness powered flight. The VC has a replica of that first airplane. Ranger Ann-Marie was giving a presentation to a large audience (photo in Daily Trip Report). She had to field a number of questions. Flying still tugs on the imagination of most humans. I turned the corner and came across a mother and daughter who were looking at a device which allows one to mimic a bird. A person holds out both arms then angles their hands on the rails to maintain balance. Valentina, the young girl, was more interested in the fun of walking on the platform than worrying about the dynamics of flight (see photo in Daily Trip Report). I had spoken with Ranger David when I had entered the VC. He asked me if he could take a photo of me wearing my tee-shirt with the backdrop of the famous photo taken during that first flight. A colorized version of the photo practically takes up an entire section of wall in the VC, and rightfully so.
As many people as were in the VC, there were more out on the grounds. The actual take-off and landing spots (there were four that first day) are identified with concrete markers. People were lined up to have their photos taken at the take-off spot. Replicas of the hanger and living quarters where assistants lived were standing next to the take-off area, having been built by the NPS. To the south of this area is a large hill. Back in 1903 it was one big sand dune. This is where Orville and Wilbur conducted glider experiments. Lugging their heavy gliders up the steep slope was not fun. A couple of decades later, the NPS planted grasses on the dune so it might be around for future generations to enjoy. A large monument was erected on the top of the hill, commemorating the work of the Wright Brothers.
Cape Hatteras NS runs for many miles between Nags Head and the end of Hatteras Island. I first stopped at the Bodie Lighthouse and VC complex. Ranger Debbie was an enthusiastic host. I just happened to enter the VC when a man and woman were bringing their son to the ranger station for the saying of the Oath for Junior Ranger. Justin had completed the necessary tasks and was ready to receive his commemorative pin (photo in Daily Trip Report). I mentioned it was wonderful to see more parents getting the younger generation involved in our National Parks, since they are the next stewards of our lands. Just down the road from Bodie was a stretch of route 12 with no wind protection. Endless ribbons of sand were sliding across the asphalt. But before I knew it I was ready to turn into the parking area for the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The stair climb to the top is closed, but many people were taking walks around the base and over to the keeper’s quarters buildings. In 1999, the lighthouse was moved from its 1870 location to the current location, a trip of 2,900 feet over the course of 23 days. The ocean had creeped within a couple hundred feet of the structure. Today, the lighthouse is 1,500 feet from the shoreline, the original distance from 1870. The spot of the first lighthouse from 1803 has been swallowed by the ocean, a similar issue with the original Bodie lighthouse story. Mother Nature usually wins in the end.
The one keepers quarters is open for visitors to tour. A husband and wife team are volunteering to man the building. They travel the country in an RV for about six months of the year, assisting many of our National Park units. What a great way to see America. The man suggested I visit the one room which covered the engineering factors involved with the 1999 move. He was right; I read every word on the displays.