May 12

I was surprised to learn El Malpais NMon was used by the U.S. Army in WW2 for bombing runs. Targets would be setup on the ground and planes would practice blowing them to smithereens. But like many Federal Government activities, the Army never fully cleared the land. Signs in the monument tell folks to watch where they step, and if any munitions are seen, to let the NPS know. Made me not want to get out onto the open ground. I stayed up on the Sandstone Bluffs.

Every Pueblo in this area has its own casino. Some are newer and snazzier looking than others. But if you like to try your hand at table games, this region will suit you… get it… ha, ha, ha. Anyway, Petroglyph NMon is just west of Albuquerque, off I-40. There are four main sections, but if you want to see artwork, head to Boca Negra Canyon, Rinconada Canyon (between I-40 and the VC), or Piedras Marcadas Canyon. Hundreds of creatures, plants, and the like are carved into the rocks. It was sad to see signs in Boca and Rinconada telling visitors to take their valuables with them, not to stash phones, cash, etc. in their vehicles. The monument is right up against residential and commercial properties. At Boca I could have thrown a rock from the parking lot to the other side of the property fence. There is a bit of stair-stepping required to get a good view of all the different carvings, but the Park Service has the paths laid out to help folks. Robert, a member of the staff at the park, explained to me about some of the pottery, cloths, and trinkets for sale at the bookstore. I purchased a Navajo Wedding Vase, made by a member of the Navajo tribe in Arizona. A portion of the sales in the bookstore is routed to Western National Parks Association, a non-profit which helps support the western parks. Eastern National handles the eastern part of the country.

Pecos NHP had some preservation work in-process when I visited. A ranger was working in one of the exposed rooms near the 1717 church. That church has also had some restorative work performed over the years, so it can last into the future. Rain, snow, wind, and other elements have a way of degrading mortar, bricks, and wood. The 1.25-mile loop trail takes visitors to surface dwellings, and one subsurface dwelling. Folks have to climb down a wood ladder to see the insides of the circular room. Most of the park site has been refilled since the original excavations. Little yellow and white flags can be seen across the grounds, identifying the location of specific buried elements. A major safety concern was the presence of rattlesnakes. Before anyone was allowed to enter the VC and proceed on the loop trail, they had to stop at an information table, staffed by a park volunteer. Her job was to given a quick lesson on what to do when encountering rattlesnakes. She said one had recently popped out onto the concrete in front of the VC, and that today was perfect weather for more to show themselves. What I did not know was the old training on cutting two lines on the skin (parallel to muscle) and sucking out the venom is no longer considered acceptable. And do not use a torniquet. Just rush to get medical services.

Back to the Pecos Settlement, which by 1450 was the single force in this region. But then the Spanish arrived, spreading across the southwest. Eventually, Pecos joined the other large southwest pueblos (Zuni, Hopi, etc.) to participate in a revolt, in 1680. The calm lasted only 12 years, with the Spanish returning in force. Then 150 years later this location was the site of an American Civil War battle, with a Confederate contingent gaining victory over a force of Union soldiers out of Colorado. The battlefield is part of the park’s boundaries. Who knew a Civil War battle was fought all the way out here?

Bandelier is right next to Los Alamos National Laboratories. To access the park’s VC, a person has to drive by property of the LANL. I was wondering what futuristic technology was being developed behind the barbed wire fence. But the Frijoles Canyon is not quite up to the 21st century. Visitors walk on the same paths that humans have for 11,000 years. The stone and mortar structures in the valley look similar to Chaco Culture, Mesa Verde, Aztec, and the like. But what those places do not have are hand-carved “caves”. It was fun to watch kids, and adults, climb up into the holes in the cliffs, and jump from one room to the next. Most people were taking the 1.2-mile main loop trail which covers the Long House section. But those wanting more exercise kept going for another 0.5 miles (to make a 2.2-mile RT hike) to the Alcove. Folks were gasping for breath after climbing three sets of wood ladders, going up 140 feet.

The parking lot was full, but a couple of spots were open when I arrived and when I left, so I think everyone was happy. Starting in June the park requires visitors to park outside the park and take a shuttle to the VC. The website even says today that if you show up and there are no spots, you will be asked to leave. An estimate is there are only 50 spots at the VC, so definitely not enough to handle the crowds which descend on this treasure.

NM 4 is the road which connects Bandelier with Valles Caldera NPres. It is not that long of a drive, though plenty of S curves. For me, there is nothing fun to do in this park. It was named a preserve so special interest groups would have a place to hunt. There are hiking trails through pine forests, but no real “destinations”. Watching myriad Prairie Dogs scurry about the property around the Entrance Station was my only amusement. This “crater” was formed 1.25 million years ago due to a large volcanic eruption. Glad I was not on the property at that time.